Everyone who has been frequenting popular social-media sites like Instagram, TikTok and YouTube in the last couple of years will have seen the term “dark academia” do the rounds.
Now what you may or not know, is that both dark academia, and its counterpart light academia, are closely related to steampunk. Indeed, you can wear the style in a steampunk or dieselpunk way.
Before we talk apparel, let’s address what dark and light academia are. Both are internet-created aesthetics and heavily rooted in literature as well as popular fiction. Think Hogwarts, with its hope and horrors. Think Miskatonic University, Sherlock (or Enola) Holmes, Nevermore from Wednesday, the universities of Indiana Jones. If you move around in steam- or dieselpunk circles, you have probably seen examples of the style without realizing it.
Dark academia looks rich but is not necessarily expensive. (You can make both styles as cheaply or as pricy as you want.) It is composed of elements of formal wear, the preppy style and the old-time analog things us ‘punks like so much.
Dark academia harkens back to a lot of vintage (style) elements. The style is keen on layering, which makes it a little harder to pull off in warm climates, but ideal for winter. Dark academia is about self-discovery and the romanticization of learning, with a focus on the dark aspects of it.
Light academia embodies the positive outlook on academia. Wednesday versus Enid, if you will. But more about that in a moment.
Let’s talk pieces from the ground up. As far as footwear is concerned, any nice shoe will do, it’s not overly strict. You might opt for brogues or another dress shoe, but you can just as well go for a classic boot or Dr Martens.
Trousers are always a good choice, be they vintage or modern. Vintage skirts, such as swing skirts, and other midcentury options, work like a charm, but that’s not to say a modern-day equivalent can’t do the trick.
Blouses and shirts are staples, often worn with a necktie or bow tie (for both men and women). Cardigans, sweater vests, waistcoats, blazers, classic coats (again, think vintage styles) and trenchcoats finish things off.
Popular accessories are leather belts, leather bags, suspenders, neckties, bow ties, wrist and pocket watches, classic and vintage-style hats, such as flat caps, baker boys, bowlers and a variety of ladies’ headwear. You get the gist. It’s not so different from, mostly, dieselpunk at all.
And obviously, if you’re not a fan of leather, any alternative that looks the part will do, be it vegan leather or another kind of fabric. Corduroy in particular is also a big favourite.
Once it gets warmer, you can absolutely change things to not suffer a heat stroke. I personally find that playing with prints that embody the style helps a lot with the visualization, but classic bottoms (of whatever length you choose) with a nice blouse as well as classic footwear and accessories get you a long way.
Here is the fun thing about dark and light academia: most of it is extremely inexpensive, because you can just go and thrift pieces. Aside from that, a lot of items can be found cheap on the high street during sales. I have found perfectly lovely waistcoats for as little as €5 and dresses for €15 that way. So even on a budget, this is a style that is easily obtainable.
If you wish to make it more steampunk: add steampunk accessories you already own. It’s not for nothing that a lot of ‘punks often refer to dark academia as “steampunk without the accessories.”
Now what separates dark academia from light academia?Mostly the colors and attitude. Dark academia is mostly dark browns, blacks, grays, with pops of white, cream, beige and jewel tones (burgundy, dark blue, dark purple, dark green) in layering pieces (a burgundy waistcoat in an otherwise black and grey outfit, or a white blouse paired with all brown tones). Light academia has more whites, creams, beiges, soft browns, mustard yellows and ochre tones, often with pastel accents.
Bear in mind that when it comes to these “made-up internet aesthetics”, they have started to live a bit of a life of their own, and a lot of people have different opinions on the matter. Some may say you absolutely must have x or y item while others that clearly embody the style don’t have said item in their wardrobe. I don’t own a trenchcoat, nor do I adopt the androgyny that is often prescribed to the style. And that is OK. In the end, there are no real “rules”, only guidelines to help you put together your own spin on academia that you feel comfortable with.
